Monday, August 04, 2008

Daily highlight #71: There is a breast in my taco - Nuevo Laredo Cantina


Nuevo Laredo is mobbed by people on a daily basis. Devotees arrive as early as eleven to secure a seat in the dingy half subterranean dining room. It would be unfair to call the food bad. It's not, but neither is it sublime or authentic.

Case in point, my chicken mole taco arrived cradled in a small baking dish. It's really a good thing that it did, the support was absolutely necessary. An entire halved breast had been stuffed uncut inside the tortilla. While the thick and sticky mole sauce pleased with its savory sweetness, it also completely reduced the tortilla into a gooey mess around the chubby breast. There was no picking up this taco.

Between licking my sticky fingers, sipping my margarita, and chatting with a table of ten, I had a good time. But is this the "best Mexican food" in Atlanta as the website claims? Not by a mile. For that, I'd drive the extra miles up Buford highway any day. But do I believe that there are real "Mexican cooks" in the kitchen also as the website claims? Absolutely. Just as there are plenty of Chinese run restaurants serving food unheard of in China, Mexican cooks are equally capable of catering to those other than their own. Would I go back with good company who long the place for something quite tasty? Of course, especially when we can get there early enough to beat the line.

Nuevo Laredo Cantina
1495 Chattahoochee Ave
Atlanta, GA 30318
404-352-9009

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