With new restaurants opening on a weekly basis, the news sources have little incentive to revisit neighborhood oldies. That's a shame because there is definitely something to be said for a place that not only survives but gains and maintains regulars year in year out. In my neighborhood, there is Wisteria. In the quiet stretch of Buckhead off of Pharr road, there is Anis Bistro.
At the bar, there is always a group of french speaking patrons, eating bistro favorites, talking to each other, and watching French TV programming. In the summer time, the shaded patio is where the action is. On this cool drizzly evening, we opted for the smaller dinning room inside, where the lighting is warm and hand drawn map on the wall unmistakably says France.
Our table of four shared a salt cured salmon. The jewel colored salmon was cool and supple. Salted, but not too saturated, I was still found the bursts of salt from the capers welcoming.
We also shared the special of escargot in a tomato spiked cream sauce. It was different and interesting. But because escargots are really texture eats and do not absorb flavors well, my preference remains with the classic preparation involving drenching in hot butter, garlic, and parsley.
When the menu says short rib, it means a whole head size chunk of it. A sharp knife is provided, but was not touched. Fork tender, pulling this baby apart by the forkful was a decadent exercise. The polenta had a sandy texture, but not unpleasantly so. Lovely dish!
Our server recommended the creme brulee and she was right on the money. With every bite, I could see an abundance of dark vanilla specks and the flavor confirmed it. The flourless chocolate cake on the other hand was just a little dry.
Anis Bistro
2974 Grandview Ave NE
Atlanta, GA 30305-3214
(404) 233-9889
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